Thursday, February 25, 2010

LOS AMIGOS DE PAMPLONA -- Miami Reunion

This weekend the Mystery Writers of America Florida Chapter's is hosting Sluethfest, their annual convention. As Palm Beach Confidential is a Palm Beach mystery and my presence is demanded. Plus it's always full of great people and is very useful for all writers.

Again,in Fort Lauderdale, next weekend is the Los Amigos de Pamplona aka Pamplonagang's, "Miami" Reunion being held this year in Fort Lauderdale. Good for me as it cuts off a half hour drive from Palm Beach.

So what do we at the "Miami" reunion. Dress in our reds and whites, drink Rioja wine, eat tapas and other Spanish-like food, meet old and new friends, and share war stories of our Pamplona trips. A jolly good time is had by all.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Walking To Crystal River

Gustavo, Oliver and I are making plans to return to Cano Cristales -- Crystal River -- sometime in August when we hope the mosses will be at their peak. That same month I plan to take my father on a trip to Leticia, Colombia's Amazon River port. He has been all over the world from China to Chile but has not seen the Amazon River.

I have the Galapagos Islands, Puerto Montt, Chile, Isfahan,Iran, Nepal and a few other places on my must see before I die list.

THe problem is that everythime I read the National Geographic I find a new must see place. Must cancel my subscription. After all I have hundreds of copies from 1918 to this months'.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

CORRIDAS

Back from three weeks of that most politically incorrect of activities -- bull fighting. Saw fourteen corridas in fourteen days and two Tientas at Ricardo Gomez' ranch outside of Manizales, Caldas, Colombia. Gonzalo Rincon gave me one of Cesar Rincon's red muletas which I used in the bull ring (practice only). The faena sword was confiscated then returned when I tried to send it in my luggage to Miami at the Cali Airport. It was not allowed to fly with me and is safely esconded in Cali.
Colombia had changed. I didn't have to think about my safety and a new attitude prevaidls through out the country.
This might be the last trip for a few months. Planning Pamplona and the Wine Battle in Spain and the Amazon in August.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

EXPEDITION INTO LA SIERRA DE LA MACARENA 12-09

LA SIERRA DE LA MACARENA EXPEDITION 2009
La Macarena Cano Cristales, San Juan de Arama,
Quebrada Curia and La Reserva.

After six days of visiting the "llanos orientales" of Colombia,
we conclude what we suspected: this is an enourmously rich region
in flora and fauna. From december 5 to the 10, 2009, we traveled to the
municipalities of La Macarena and San Juan de Arama, two towns located
on each end of the "Sierra de la Macarena", an independent mountain
range with a long and rich history. This entire area has been closed to
the scientic community for decades due to the internal armed conflict of
Colombia. La Macarena mountain has been, and continues to be to a great
degree, a hiding place for armed guerrillas who use its geographical
wonders to conduct military operations and narcotrafficking activities.
It is also a zone used by paramilitaries and by the regular armed forces
of Colombia. This reality is however, changing. For the most part, the
area is now under the control of the State and can be visited by taking
basic precautions. We did and our visit resulted in a great experience.
We hope to return soon. Here is a brief description of the trip.

On the 5 of december we started our trip by driving from Bogota
to Villavicencio where we visited the Ocarros (Giant Armadillo) Natural
Park. This is quite an impressive place where one can see most species
endemic of this vast region east of the Andes. From Villavicencio, the
capital city of the Meta province.

On the 6th of december we flew to the town of La Macarena, La
Macarena is a small village until just recently under the control ofleftist guerrillas. La Macarena is now in the hands of the Colombian
armed forces, practically a militarized town.

Also on the 6th of december we traveled by motorized canoo on
the Guayabero river from La Macarena for about half an hour looking for
Cano Cristales. From the banks of the Guayabero we were driven for
another 30 minutes or so to an army check point just on the side of this
Cano (small river) which springs off the Macarena and becomes part of
the Guayabero. From the check point we walked up Cano Cristales while
observing the colorful formations. Several areas of Cano Cristales were
inspected under water and a considerable amount of images was gathered.

On the 7th of december we travelled by moto-taxi to another
cano, a smaller one, just outside La Macarena. Underwater pictures were
taken and basic information about the cano was gathered from the locals.
Also on the 7th we flew back to Villavicencio then drove for about 2
hours to reach San Juan de Arama.

On the 8th of December we drove to Cano Curia. While in the
vecinity, we took a look at a "termales" source ans also witnessed a
coal mine where my grandfather once dreamed of big things. The mine is
not currently under commercial exploitation, thank God. Then on to
Monserrate, a hamlet very close to San Juan de Arama where we marveled
at the beautiful waters while Oliver went underwater. Local rumors made
us depart on a hurry due to unconfirmed "guerrillas" watching us. Then
we drove to the top of the Tablaso. Then we literally walked to the
very top of this geographical formation. The view of the Llanos is
breath-taking.
On the 9th of December we drove/walk to La Macarena National
Park in front of San Juan de Arama. We found a small and semi-abandoned
complex of cabins at the entrance. Locals such as Senor Saul Neira and
Agapito Gonzalez say these cabins are there to welcome interested
academic types. With a bit of work, this complex can be used as lodging
and base-camp for future visitors. We were told there were paths inside
the jungle for us to follow and be exposed to the wild, but we found
those paths to be impenetrable at this time. This can change.

Also on the 9th we drove to small farm called "La Isla", a farm
of about 11 hectares right up to the Tablaso and surrounded by two streams.
Then we drove to the "Resevera", a small farm on the banks of the Guejar
river which we then crossed on a cable cart barely anchored. A short
walk which included a brief encounter with a snake which made us dance,
took us to another stream where it is said lots of frogs inhabit.

Also on the 9th we drove to the "Alto de la Bodega" then on to
Cano de Tubo near Corrales, all inside the borders of San Juan de Arama.
Cano de Tubo promises lots of surprises underwater. Unfortunately, time
was not on our side and we will have to visit again.

On the 10th we went looking for monkeys, but were not lucky to
see them. Quick visit to the Ariari river. We departed back to Bogota
and arrived there in the late afternoon.

While visiting these places we received the support of the two
mayors, the local community, and of the armed forces. Hopefully in the
future this kind of trips will be easier to plan and execute without so
much effort put into security issues. We think this will be the case andtherefore it excites us even more.

Oliver, Robert and I agree that the main finding of this trip is
that it can be done and that it should be done again with higher
scientific expectations. The Macarena range is ready to welcome
scientific missions. Both Colombian and non-colombian scients and
interested parties have a huge responsibility to go in, observe, record,
study and share these wonders. We believe the time is right for the
Macarena to re-open itself to the scientific community and allow it to
explore, study and share some its flora, fauna and other secrets.

Since our trip Gus has been actively talking with Mayor Meyer of
San Juan, Mayor Vargas of La Macarena; and then with Mr. Saul Neira,
Agapito Gonzalez, Colonel Guevara Meyer and others. They are very happy
we did what we did and add they will do whatever is withing their power
to help us on the next trip.

On the 11th of december Oliver visited the National University
of Colombia in Bogota. From our current understanding the last
scientific collection of fish in the Macarena region goes back to the
1960s. Even today the people at the "National University of Colombia"
are not comfortable going there and collect fish. We suspect other
academic institutions argue the same, citing security reasons. While
visiting the "Universidad Nacional" on December 11th, Oliver articulated
that our group has the needed connections to do this.

Oliver is familiar with how this gathering of samples is done
(cataloging, tagging, taking DNA samples et cetera) and offered to his
audience at the University that we could facilitate a new trip to theMacarena region. Such trip should include bringing some of the grad
students and at leastone of the professors to do a proper survey. The
scientific collection of fish (this should be done for birds, insects
and frogs also, but that is in the future for now) would focus as
follows:

We would want to collect in the following areas near the
municipalities of San Juan de Arama and La Macarena:

1. The Rio Guejar main between the Tablaso and the Macarena mountains.
This is the vecinity of San Juan de Arama.

2. The Cano Curia on the Llanos side of the Tablaso, and some of its
smaller tributaries. Also in the same area as San Juan de Arama.

3. Small Canos and Morichales on top of the San Juan de Arama Plateau.

4. The Cano Cristales at altitude (near where we were in december, and
up) as well as near its confluence with the Guayabero. This is in the La
Macarena municipality.

5. The small canos draining the ridge and if possible pools of water or
running water on top, or near the top of the ridge. Also in the La
Macarena town area.

6. The Guayabero and the smaller rivers draining into it from both
sides. Also in the La Macarena township.

To do this we would need around 2 days in each place. Along with3-4 people from the university perhaps another 3-4 people from San Juan
de Arama or local communities (older students like Willy Meyer could get
involved). Some logistical support from Police/army-engineers) to ensure
security. Oliver is making a strong case that we get at least one
species named after the region and/or the more important people in the
region. Oliver has some pull in these matters.

Oliver is also in touch with Hernan Fernandez and Donald
Taphorn, inminent authorities for neotropial fish from the northern part
of South America. Mr. Fernandez, who is the curator at the Royal Ontario
Museum, has agreed to do DNA work to see if our collected animals are
closer related to the Andean forms or Guyana Shield forms, since the
Macarena may well hold the key to establishing some of the natural
history in this region. Mr. Taphorn is a specialist for Rivulus spp.
(the small fish Oliver collected in La Macarena). Mr. Taphorn will have
samples of that collection and if it is something new we could get a
first species description. By the way, Oliver left some samples of the
collection at the University in Bogota as well. Mr. Fernandez has
already expressed interest in joining us on the next trip.

###

Sunday, December 20, 2009

ONE STEP MORE

One step more is the phrase I had to keep repeating to myself as I labored to raise my crampon-booted foot, move it forward and set it down in front my other foot as I climbed the 18,000 foot high glacier towards the peak of Ritacumba Blanca in the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, Colombia's second highest mountain. Each step was a massive effort and required all the concentration my oxygen-deprived mind could muster.

Life is exactly the same. Daily efforts that seem so hard to over come but, like reaching the narrow glaciated peak on Ritacumba Blanca and staring down the three thousand foot escarpment on the other side into the Ratoncito Valley and the glaciers on the other peaks, are worth the effort. Thirty years later, the thrill of that moment still sends goose-bumps down my back.

I want to Take One Step More, one step futher into the unknow if need be.

Life's rewards are directly related to the risks one takes.

ONE STEP MORE. Take one step more with me.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

MOSTLY WHAT I LIKE

THE AUTHOR SELF-PROMOTION MANUEL:
How to Get Your Books Into the Bookstores and Off the Shelves.

The first Blog on THE AUTHOR SELF-PROMOTION MANUEL BLOG. This blog is bassed upon a three month, 14 state book tour I did with my daughter Melissa in the summer of 2003 & 2008 for my nonfiction book Killercane: The Dealy Huricane of 1928, that killed nearly 3,000 people in Palm.

Robe